...A soft cravat is tied around the collar, and the wide cuffs are turned up to reveal the cuffs of a vest decorated with lace. The justocol first appeared around 1670, and in the 18th century it was called the abyss. The basic form of men's clothing, consisting of a jacket, vest, and culottes, was established around this time. From 【Clothing】… The 18th century Rococo fashion, as exemplified by the salon culture of the time presided over by ladies, was characterized by graceful and delicate feminine tastes, and spread not only within the bounds of aristocratic society but also to the middle classes, who were beginning to gain economic power. For men's clothing, the name of the flared top, which had been changed from juste col to the "habit," was changed to "abi," and at first imitated a feminine silhouette, but over time the hem width narrowed, the length of the vest became shorter, and the shape of the culottes became more regular. The "habit redingote," with a large double-lapel collar derived from British riding clothes, also came to be worn, and this became the origin of the frock coat. … *Some of the terminology that mentions "Abi (clothing)" is listed below. Source | Heibonsha World Encyclopedia 2nd Edition | Information |
…襟なしの襟もとには,やわらかい布地のクラバットを結び,折り返された幅広いカフスからは,レースで飾ったベストの袖口がのぞく。ジュストコルは1670年ごろから登場し,18世紀にはアビという呼称にひきつがれる。上衣,ベスト,キュロットという男子服の基本型はこのころに確立された。… 【服装】より… 18世紀のロココ・モードは,貴婦人が主宰する当時のサロン文化に代表されるように,優美で繊細な女性的趣向を特色とし,貴族社会の枠内にとどまらず,経済力をつけはじめた市民階級にまで波及した。男子服では裾広がりの上衣はジュストコルから〈アビhabit〉と名を変え,初めは女性的シルエットをまねていたが,やがて裾幅は狭められ,ベストの丈も短くなり,キュロットの形も整ってくる。またイギリスの乗馬服に由来する大きな二重の折返し衿のついた〈アビ・ルダンゴトhabit redingote〉も着られ,フロックコートの起源になる。… ※「アビ(衣服)」について言及している用語解説の一部を掲載しています。 出典|株式会社平凡社世界大百科事典 第2版について | 情報 |
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