Ashiginu

A contraction of the words "ashikikinu" (bad silk), it refers to inferior silk and was also called futoginu (thick silk). It is also called silk and refers to silk products of inferior quality compared to silk. The weave is plain, and it is the same as modern-day heiken (plain silk). During the Ritsuryo period, it was offered as choashiginu (commissioned silk) from all over the country, and relics of this silk remain in the Shosoin Repository, but it cannot be said to be of poor quality. There is a theory that this is the predecessor of tsumugi (pongee), and that the silk was spun from silk floss, but the silk in the relics is made from silk threads drawn from domesticated silkworm cocoons, so this theory cannot be supported.

[Kadoyama Yukihiro]

Source: Shogakukan Encyclopedia Nipponica About Encyclopedia Nipponica Information | Legend

「悪(あし)き絹(きぬ)」の詰まったことばで、粗悪な絹のことをいい、太絹(ふとぎぬ)ともよんだ。また絹と併称され、絹に比べて粗悪な品質の蚕糸製品をさす。織物組織は平織で、現在の平絹(へいけん)にあたる。律令(りつりょう)時代には各地より調絁(ちょうあしぎぬ)として貢納され、その遺品が正倉院に残っているが、あまり粗悪な絹とはいえない。これを紬(つむぎ)の前身とみて、絁は真綿から紡出したとする説があるが、遺品の絁は家蚕繭から引いた絹糸からなり、この説を裏づけできない。

［角山幸洋］

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