Rock climbing. A technique for clambering up rocky terrain. Originally a technique for overcoming difficult rocky terrain on the way to the summit, it began to refer to a sport for climbing rock faces and rock peaks itself from around the 1920s, and was independent of mountain climbing in the broad sense. It usually targets rock faces up to a few hundred meters high, but there are also walls that are 1,000 meters high or even higher, and this type of climbing is called big-wall climbing. Technically, the climber uses the unevenness and cracks in the wall as handholds and footholds, and ensures safety by driving pitons (called pitons in Germany, the UK, and France) or embedded bolts into the rock and attaching a rope. In places where it was impossible to move forward using holds alone, aid climbing was used, where stirrups were set on these anchors. However, from the mid-1960s, free climbing, which does not rely on artificial means, began to develop in the United States, and with physical training and improved technique, almost all short routes under 50 meters were free climbed. At the same time, chocks that could be set one-handed without damaging the rock were developed. Today, even overhangs of 90 degrees or more are climbed free. In Japan, a free climbing boom began in 1980, and several world-class climbers have emerged. In 1989, the Japan Free Climbing Association (JFA) was founded. Source: Encyclopaedia Britannica Concise Encyclopedia About Encyclopaedia Britannica Concise Encyclopedia Information |
岩登りのこと。岩場をよじ登る登山技術の一つ。もともとは山頂に至る過程で困難な岩場を克服するための技術だったが,1920年代頃から岩壁や岩峰そのものを目的とするスポーツとして,広義の登山から独立した行為をさすようになった。通常数百mまでの岩壁を対象とするが,なかには 1000m,あるいはそれをこえるスケールの壁もあり,その登攀をビッグウォール・クライミング (大岩壁登攀) と呼ぶ。技術的には壁面の凹凸や割れ目 (クラック) を手がかり足がかり (ホールド) として攀じ,途中ハーケン (独,英仏ではピトン) や埋め込みボルトなどを岩に打ち込んでザイルをかけて安全を確保する。ホールドのみで前進できないような箇所ではこれらの支点に鐙 (あぶみ) をセットして登るエイドクライミング (人工登攀) が用いられてきたが,1960年代半ばからアメリカを発信地として,肉体の鍛練と技術の向上によって人工手段に頼らないフリークライミング (自由登攀) が勃興し,50m以内の短いルートはほとんどすべてがフリークライミングされるようになった。同時に,岩にきずをつけず片手でセットできるチョック類も発達した。現代では,90゜以上のオーバーハングさえフリーで登られている。日本では 1980年を契機としてフリークライミング・ブームが起こり,世界レベルのクライマーも何人か出現した。 1989年には日本フリークライミング協会 JFAの設立をみた。
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