Tanzen

A cotton-padded kimono worn by men as a layer over their outerwear to protect against the cold when relaxing at home. It is usually worn over a yukata, one piece in front, and tied with a thin obi. Recently, hotels and other establishments have begun to offer kimonos for women as well. The fabric is the same as that of men's lined kimonos, with the outer fabric being striped cotton, cotton tsumugi, and other cotton fabrics, silk fabrics such as kihachijo, tsumugi, and omeshi, synthetic fabrics, and synthetic cross-woven fabrics. The patterns used are mainly large, somewhat flashy stripes. The lining is continuous, and the fabric is mainly navy blue gold cloth. The cuffs and collar are made of Hachijo or amber weave, and the filling is cotton (Tanzen cotton) or tanzen blow-stop cotton. In recent years, wool has been used to make single-layered Tanzen. The shape is the same as that of a men's lined kimono, but the sleeves are wide. Sometimes the sleeves are open-backed.

Tanzen was originally a luxurious piece of clothing for relaxation, and is said to have been worn over Yuki Tsumugi clothing. According to Morisada Kitagawa's Early Modern Manners Journal, "Morizada Manko," tanzen was the name of clothing in Kyoto and Osaka, and in Edo it was called "dotera." It was smaller than yogi (nightwear) but larger than kimono, had a lining at the end of the collar, and the hem was square, not round. It was also tied with silk thread like a futon and had a black half-collar, and its shape is different from today's tanzen. In the early Edo period, around the time of the Jo'o and Meireki eras (1652-1658), bathhouses for women were popular, and the strange style of the dandy men who frequented the bathhouse in front of the residence of Hori Tango no Kami in Chigo-cho, Kanda Yonken-cho, Edo, was called the "Tanzen style." This style spread to Kamigata, where it came to be called Tanzen, and became a type of cold weather clothing.

[Yasu Fujimoto]

Source: Shogakukan Encyclopedia Nipponica About Encyclopedia Nipponica Information | Legend

家庭でくつろぐとき、防寒用として衣服の上に重ね着する綿入れの男子の家庭着。普通、浴衣(ゆかた)の上に重ねて一つ前にあわせて着衣し、細帯を締める。最近、旅館などでは女性用も用意されている。布地は男物袷(あわせ)長着と同じで、表布は縞(しま)木綿、綿紬(つむぎ)などの綿織物、黄八丈、紬類、お召(めし)などの絹織物、化繊織物、化繊交織織物などである。柄(がら)はおもに縞物の、大きめでややはでなものを用いる。裏は通し裏にし、布地ははな色（紺）の金巾(かなきん)を主として用いる。袖(そで)口布、掛け衿(えり)は八丈、琥珀(こはく)織などを用い、充填(じゅうてん)材には木綿綿（丹前綿）または丹前用吹止め綿を用いる。近年はウールを用いて、単(ひとえ)仕立ての丹前がつくられている。形は男物袷長着と同様であるが、袖は広袖である。また袂(たもと)袖にすることもある。

　丹前は本来ぜいたくなくつろぎ着で、結城(ゆうき)紬の衣服の上に着衣したといわれている。なお喜田川守貞(きたがわもりさだ)の近世風俗志『守貞漫稿』によれば、丹前は京坂の服名で、江戸では「どてら」とよんでおり、夜着(よぎ)より小さく衣服より大きく、衿端に裏を出し、褄(つま)形は方にして円ならず、また、練り繰り糸をもって夜着、ふとんのようにとじ、黒半衿をかけるとあり、今日の丹前とは形が異なっている。江戸時代初期、承応(じょうおう)・明暦(めいれき)（1652～58）のころ湯女風呂(ゆなぶろ)が流行し、江戸・神田四軒町雉子(ちご)町の、堀丹後守(たんごのかみ)邸前にある風呂屋に通う男伊達(だて)の異様な風を丹前風といい、これが上方(かみがた)へ移って丹前とよばれ、防寒着の一種となった。

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