This phenomenon occurs when waves from offshore approach the shore. As the water becomes shallower, the wavelength shortens and the wave height increases, until the waveform becomes unstable and the wave collapses forward. Source: About Shogakukan Digital Daijisen Information | Legend |
沖合からの波が岸に近づく際に起こる現象。水深が浅くなるにつれて波長が縮むと同時に波高が増し、やがて波形が不安定となって前方にくずれ落ちる。
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