Gold thread all over - Kinshimarukoshi

...There are plain, twill, and satin fabrics, and the gold threads are woven in a variety of ways, including full woven (marukoshi), where gold threads are woven every other weft, half woven (hankoshi), where gold threads are woven in every two wefts, and also in a variety of ways, such as a jigarami (ground knot) or a separate knot with a separate knot. In general, twill fabrics with gold threads full woven and ground knots show more of an ancient style, while satin fabrics with half woven and separate woven gold threads are more common in gorgeous brocades from the mid-Ming dynasty onwards. It is unclear when brocade began to be woven in Japan, but a letter from Luis Frois dated April 27, 1565 (Eiroku 8) in the "Christian Letters from Japan" states that "Padres began to hold mass wearing brocade vestments made in this region," which suggests that fabrics using gold threads were being woven in Kyoto in the mid-16th century.

*Some of the terminology explanations that refer to "Kinshi Zenkoshi" are listed below.

Source | Heibonsha World Encyclopedia 2nd Edition | Information

…地合は平地，綾地，繻子地のものがあり，金糸の織入れ方も地緯一越おきに入れた全越（まるこし），地緯2本ごとに金糸を入れた半越，また金糸の押さえを地絡（じがらみ）としたもの，別に絡み経を仕たてて別絡（べつがらみ）としたものなどがある。一般には綾地に金糸全越･地絡としたものに古様な作風を示すものが多く，これに対し繻子地に金糸半越･別絡としたものは明代中期以降の華やかな金襴に多く見られる。日本で金襴が織り始められた時期は明らかでないが，《耶蘇会士日本通信》の1565年(永禄8)4月27日付のルイス･フロイスの書簡中には〈パードレは当地方産の金襴の祭服を着けてミサを始めた〉とあり，16世紀中葉には京都で，金糸を使った織物が製織されていたことになる。…

※「金糸全越」について言及している用語解説の一部を掲載しています。

出典｜株式会社平凡社世界大百科事典 第２版について | 情報