Kasane Shozoku - Layered costume

Japanese: 襲装束 - かさねしょうぞく

A type of costume for Bugaku. Also called Karashozoku or Tsuneshozoku, it is worn by both dancers and musicians. It consists of Torikabuto (a traditional armor), Ho (a robe), Hanpi (a half-sleeved garment), Shigasane (a garment worn under the armour), Ueno-Hakama (a formal hakama), Okuchi (a formal kimono), Sekitai (a gold belt on the left and a silver belt on the right), Fugake (a shin guard), Shitouzu (a pair of socks), and Shikai (a pair of threaded sandals). It was customary for military officers of the Konoe (a branch of the Imperial Guard) to perform Bugaku at the Imperial Court, and since dancers and musicians belonged to the Efu (guard), most of the costumes worn were those of military officers. The costume was also a variation of the morning uniform (sokutai) worn by military officers, with a bird-shaped helmet instead of a crown, a robe with no armpits and embroidery on the half-sleeve body, and a so-called dyed undergarment (a gorgeous undergarment worn only for one day on sunny days), with a white base dyed with diamond-shaped embroidery and a brocade border. Originally, a hitoe was worn underneath, but after the Kamakura period, instead of wearing the undergarment, hitoe, and undergarment curtain, they began to wear a single garment made by combining them.

[Takada Yamato]

Illustration of Banzairaku
This is a dance performed by four people in ordinary costume (Osakosoku). They wear a red robe with a pattern on it and a bird armor, and they dance with their right shoulder undressed. Sometimes it is performed by six people. Bugaku Emaki (detail) from the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Illustration of Banzairaku

Source: Shogakukan Encyclopedia Nipponica About Encyclopedia Nipponica Information | Legend

Japanese:

舞楽の衣装の一種。唐(から)装束、常(つね)装束ともいわれ、舞人、楽人とも用いる。その構成は鳥甲(とりかぶと)、袍(ほう)、半臂(はんぴ)、下襲(したがさね)、表袴(うえのはかま)（近代は指貫(さしぬき)とよんでいる）、大口、石帯(せきたい)（左方は金帯、右方は銀帯）、踏懸(ふがけ)（脛巾(はばき)）、襪(しとうず)、糸鞋(しかい)となっている。宮廷における舞楽は近衛(このえ)の武官が奉仕する慣例で、また舞人や楽人は衛府に属したものであったため、ほとんどが武官の装束による。襲装束も武官の朝服（束帯）の変化形式で、冠のかわりに鳥甲をかぶり、袍は闕腋(けってき)の袍、半臂の身頃(みごろ)に刺しゅうを施し、下襲はいわゆる染下襲（晴(はれ)の日に限って1日のみ使用する華やかな下襲）で、白地に絞りで菱(ひし)形に染め刺しゅうを加え、錦(にしき)の縁どりとしたものを用いた。本来は下に単(ひとえ)を着たが、鎌倉時代以降、下襲と単と下着の帷(かたびら)を襲ねるかわりに、それらを合体して一領の衣服としたものを着用することとなった。

［高田倭男］

万歳楽の図
常装束（襲装束）で演じる四人舞。鳥甲に赤地窠文の袍を着け、右肩を脱いで舞う。6人で舞うこともある。『舞楽絵巻』（部分）メトロポリタン美術館所蔵">

万歳楽の図

出典　小学館　日本大百科全書(ニッポニカ)日本大百科全書(ニッポニカ)について　情報 | 凡例

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