A type of hakama with a wide body and narrow hem. It has a horizontal cloth at the hem. The origin of the word is the Portuguese calção, meaning trousers. The original form can be seen from the Fuzoku Byobu screen and the Kabuki Soushi Emaki, but it gradually became more Japanese and came closer to the Fumikomi Hakama, Tatsuke Hakama, and Yama Hakama, and changed from the original Kukuriyo Hakama to a form with pleated narrow horizontal cloth at the hem. At first, Oda Nobunaga and Toyotomi Hideyoshi wore it, but in the 18th century, it was incorporated into the clothing of the common people, and was worn by fishmongers, kimono shop assistants, and hairdressers as work clothes, and in the 19th century, it was also worn by palanquin carriers on the Kiso Kaido road, and gradually spread from urban areas to rural areas. Source: Encyclopaedia Britannica Concise Encyclopedia About Encyclopaedia Britannica Concise Encyclopedia Information |
袴の一種で,筒が太く,裾口が狭いもの。裾には横布がついている。語源はズボンの意のポルトガル語の calção。当初の形態は風俗屏風や『歌舞伎草紙絵巻』から察せられるが,しだいに日本化して踏込袴,裁付(たっつけ)袴,山袴に近づき,当初の括緒(くくりお)袴様のものから,裾にひだをとって幅の狭い横布をつけた形態へと変化していった。最初は織田信長や豊臣秀吉などもはいたが,18世紀に入ると庶民服飾の一部に取り入れられ,魚屋,呉服屋の手代,髪結い床の主人なども仕事着として利用し,19世紀には木曾街道の駕籠かきもはくようになり,しだいに都会から農村に入っていった。
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