Cuffs - Kafusu (English spelling) cuffs

Japanese: カフス - かふす（英語表記）cuffs

A general term for the part of a garment that covers the wrist. It is the plural of the English word "cuff" and is used as a set for both the left and right sleeves, so the word "cuffs" became established in Japanese. In Japanese, it mainly refers to the cuffs of Western garments such as shirts, but its original meaning is diverse, including the bottom of trousers, the folded parts of gloves and boots, the wrist area of long gloves, sleeve covers, and handcuffs. In the Middle Ages, it also meant mittens and gloves.

[Tanaka Toshiko]

history

Cuffs are unique to northern clothing, but in Western clothing, they first appeared in the 15th century when sleeves became tighter and the ends of sleeves were turned up. Initially, fur cuffs were often used on women's clothing to keep them warm. Later, decorative elements became more prominent in men's clothing and for the upper classes, and shirts began to be decorated with lace and linen. With the appearance of the ruff collar in the 16th century, this trend became clear from the early modern period onwards, leading to the fashion for luxurious lace cuffs and the development of the lace industry in Italy and Flanders. Lace cuffs were highly decorative on thick, dark-colored outerwear from the Renaissance to the Baroque period. In the knee-length coat, which became the basic men's clothing in the 17th century, turned-up cuffs were important as decoration and remained indispensable until modern times. Shirts from that period were fitted with ruffles or lace cuffs. They became an especially important decoration on the cuffs of women's clothing that reached elbow length, and in the 18th century, they were decorated with multiple layers. These modern cuffs also became a symbol of the non-working upper classes and aristocracy. This trend went out of fashion after the French Revolution, and they disappeared from ordinary men's outerwear, remaining only as decorative buttons on the cuffs of frock coats, morning coats, and suits. Today, they are used as decoration on shirts, blouses, and women's clothing, but are generally simple in design. They remained on military uniforms until much later.

[Tanaka Toshiko]

kinds

There are many types of cufflinks and they are called various names, but the most common ones in use today are as follows:

(1) Imitation cuffs: Part of the sleeve has a stitch at the end to make it look like a cuff.

(2) Winged cuffs: These cuffs are folded over and split on the outer sleeve side, with both ends curved upwards to form a wing-like shape. They are used on blouses, etc.

(3) Shirt cuffs: There are two types of shirt cuffs: double-breasted with a cuff turn-up and single-breasted with no cuff turn-up.

(4) Turn-up cuffs: These are cuffs in which the sleeves are turned up toward the elbow. They are also called turn back cuffs.

(5) Band cuffs: Narrow, straight pieces of fabric. Often used on sleeves with gathered ends. Also called cuff bands.

(6) Dropped cuffs: A general term for sleeves that hang down from the end. They are gorgeous with frills, flares, and gathers.

(7) Fur cuffs: Fur cuffs that are worn on coats to match the collar.

[Tanaka Toshiko]

Cufflinks

cuffs-button is a Japanese word. In English it is called cuff-buttons, cuff-links, sleeve-links, or couple buttons. A fastener that is inserted into the holes on both sides of a shirt cuff to close the opening. Many consist of two or one button connected by a chain or metal fittings, and precious metals or jewels are used for decoration on the outer sleeve side. Many come as a set with a tie pin. Often used for formal wear.

It first appeared in 17th century jackets, but later strings were used and they were called cuff-strings, and in the mid-19th century chains were used to connect them and they were called cuff-links. It took on its present-day form at the end of the 19th century when the men's suit style was perfected.

[Tanaka Toshiko]

Main types of cufflinks
©Soga Shuichi ">

Main types of cufflinks

Source: Shogakukan Encyclopedia Nipponica About Encyclopedia Nipponica Information | Legend

Japanese:

洋服などの手首を覆う部分の総称。英語のcuffの複数形で、左右一そろいで使われるため、カフスとして日本語に定着した。日本語では主としてワイシャツなどの洋服の袖口布(そでぐちぬの)をさすが、本来の意味は多様で、ズボンの裾(すそ)、手袋、ブーツなどの折り返し部分や長手袋の腕回り、袖カバー、手錠(てじょう)などの意がある。中世にはミトンや手袋をも意味した。

［田中俊子］

歴史

カフスは北方系衣服に特有のものだが、西洋服飾においてその発生は、袖がタイトになった15世紀に、袖の末端を折り返したことにある。当初は保温のため、婦人服に毛皮のカフスが多く用いられた。その後、男子服や上層階級では装飾要素が強くなり、シャツにもレースや亜麻の装飾的なものが施されるようになった。16世紀、ひだ襟ラフruffの登場とともに、近世以降はこの傾向が明確になり、豪華なレース・カフの流行をもみ、イタリアやフランドルのレース産業を発展させた。レース・カフはルネサンスからバロック期の地厚な暗色系の表着に装飾効果を大いに発揮した。17世紀に基本的な男子服となった膝丈(ひざたけ)のコートでは、折り返ったカフは装飾として重要な意義をもち、近代まで不可欠のものとなった。同期のシャツには、ラッフル（ひだ飾り）やレースのカフがつけられた。肘(ひじ)丈になった婦人服の袖口にはとくにたいせつな装飾となり、18世紀には、幾重にも重ねて飾られた。このような近世のカフスは労働に携わらない上層階級や貴族のシンボルともなった。フランス革命を境としてこの傾向は廃れ、通常の男子の表着からは姿を消し、フロックコートやモーニングコート、背広の袖口の飾りボタンとして名残(なごり)をとどめるにすぎない。今日ではシャツやブラウス、婦人服に装飾として用いられているが、一般に単純なものになっている。軍服などには相当後年まで姿をとどめていた。

［田中俊子］

種類

カフスの種類は多く、その呼称もさまざまであるが、今日、用いられているもののうち代表的なものとしては次のようなものがあげられる。

(1)イミテーション・カフスimitation cuffs　袖先の部分に縫い目を入れて袖の一部をカフスに見せかけたもの。

(2)ウィングド・カフスwinged cuffs　折り返ったカフスが外袖側で分かれ、先広がりの形でその両先端はそり上がってとがり、翼のような形になっている。ブラウスなどに使われる。

(3)シャツ・カフスshirt cuffs　ワイシャツのカフスで、折り返しのあるダブルと、折り返しのないシングルがある。

(4)ターナップ・カフスturn-up cuffs　袖先を肘のほうへ折り返したもので、ターン・バック・カフスturn back cuffsともいう。

(5)バンド・カフスband cuffs　まっすぐな布でできた幅の狭いもの。袖先にギャザーを寄せた袖に使うことが多い。カフ・バンドともいう。

(6)ドロップド・カフスdropped cuffs　袖先に垂れ下がったものの総称。フリル、フレア、ギャザーで華やか。

(7)ファー・カフスfur cuffs　毛皮のカフス。襟とそろえてオーバーなどに用いられる。

［田中俊子］

カフスボタン

cuffs-button和製語。英語ではcuff-buttons、cuff-links、sleeve-linksなどといい、夫妻(めおと)ボタンともいう。ワイシャツなどのカフスの両側の穴に差し込んで開口部を閉じるための留め具。2個または1個のボタンを鎖や金具で連結したものが多く、外袖側には装飾に貴金属や宝石類を用いる。タイピンとセットになったものも多い。礼装に多く用いる。

　17世紀の上着に登場するが、のちに打ち紐(ひも)が用いられ、cuff-stringsとよばれ、19世紀中期には鎖がつなぎに用いられcuff-linksといわれた。今日の形になったのは男子のスーツ形式が完成した19世紀末である。

［田中俊子］

カフスのおもな種類

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