Edo Tsumami Ushirogakari - Edo Tsumami Ushirogakari

...The pattern of the yusoku motifs and auspicious designs such as the phoenix, the crane and turtle, the pine, bamboo, plum, and peony, which were applied with yuzen and embroidery on both sides of the hem, changed to a large pattern that extended beyond the side seam, mainly on the front body, due to the wearing method of folding the hem without pulling it in. This was called Oedo tsuma and Edo tsuma ato gakari. As the pattern changed, the name was changed to Tomesode, and the original Edo tsuma pattern remains only in the sitting room wear of geisha. ...

*Some of the terminology explanations that refer to "Edo Tsumaatogakari" are listed below.

Source | Heibonsha World Encyclopedia 2nd Edition | Information

…鳳凰，鶴亀，松竹梅，牡丹などの有職文様や吉祥柄を友禅とししゅうで両褄にあらわした模様が，前身ごろを中心に大きく脇縫を越えた模様に変わったのは，裾を引かずお端折（はしより）にする着装方法による。これを大江戸褄，江戸褄後がかりと呼んだ。模様の変化にしたがって現在では留袖と名称が変わり，本来の江戸褄模様は，芸者の座敷着としてわずかに残る。…

※「江戸褄後がかり」について言及している用語解説の一部を掲載しています。

出典｜株式会社平凡社世界大百科事典 第２版について | 情報