...the anchor is generally a piton (a metal nail with a ring at the top, also called a piton) driven into a small crack in the rock and a carabiner attached to it; these two tools, together with a hammer for driving the piton, are called the three tools for rock climbing. The embedded bolt invented after the war allowed anchors to be created on vertical rock faces and overhangs without cracks, so that the leader, secured by two ropes, could use stirrups to develop one difficult route after another. This method of actively using tools as a means of climbing is called artificial climbing. Currently, devices have been developed that function effectively as belaying pins by inserting climbing nuts (chocks) or friends of an appropriate size according to the shape of the crack and using the power of multiple cams that work freely. These devices have a wide range of functions depending on the climber's skill, are easy to retrieve and can be used repeatedly, and do not leave any damage or deformation on the rock wall, so their use is rapidly increasing. *Some terminology explanations that mention "artificial climbing" are listed below. Source | Heibonsha World Encyclopedia 2nd Edition | Information |
…確保支点は,小さな岩の割れ目(クラック)にピトンpiton(頭部に輪をもった鉄釘,ハーケンともいう)を打ち込んでカラビナを掛けるのが一般的で,この2種の用具に打込み用のハンマーを加えて岩登り用の三つ道具と呼ぶ。戦後発明された埋込みボルトは,クラックのない垂直の岩壁や岩びさし(オーバーハング)にも確保支点をつくることができるため,2本のザイルでつり上げ確保されたトップが,あぶみを利用して困難なルートを次々に開拓することができたが,このように,用具を登攀の手段として積極的に使う方法を人工登攀(アーティフィシャルクライミングartificial climbing)という。現在,クラックの形状に応じて適当な大きさのクライミングナッツ(チョック)やフレンズを差し込んで,自在に働く複数のカムの力でビレーイングピンとして強い効果を上げる器具が開発され,登攀者の技術によって多様に機能し,また,回収も容易で何度でも使用でき,岩壁に破壊や変形の跡を残さずに済むために,使用者が急増している。… ※「artificial climbing」について言及している用語解説の一部を掲載しています。 出典|株式会社平凡社世界大百科事典 第2版について | 情報 |
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