Born June 18, 1886 in Moberly, England [Died] June 8, 1924. North Face of Everest, Tibet British explorer and mountaineer. Born into a clergyman's family. He began mountaineering while studying at Winchester University, and after graduating from Cambridge University, he became a teacher. He served in the military during World War I, and returned to teaching in 1919. In 1921, he participated in the first Everest Expedition sent by the prestigious British mountaineering club, the Alpine Club. During this expedition, which was primarily for research purposes, he discovered the North Col and succeeded in opening up a route. In 1922, he rejoined the second expedition, known for being the first to use oxygen tanks. The first attempt reached an altitude of 8,230m, but a second attempt was abandoned after a Sherpa was killed in an avalanche. In 1924, he also participated in the third expedition. When asked before setting out, "Why do you want to climb Everest?", he famously replied, "Because the mountain is there." With Andrew Irvine, they set out from their final camp at 8,170 m (26,000 ft), but never returned. There has been much debate as to whether they were the first to summit, although one of the expedition members testified that they had seen the summit. In 1999, Mallory's body was found at 8,155 m (26,000 ft). Mallory |
[生]1886.6.18. イギリス,モバリー [没]1924.6.8. チベット,エベレスト北壁 イギリスの探検家,登山家。牧師の家に生まれた。ウィンチェスター大学在学中に登山を始め,ケンブリッジ大学を卒業して教職についた。第1次世界大戦中は軍務につき,1919年教職に復帰。 1921年イギリスの名門山岳会「アルペン・クラブ」が派遣した第1次エベレスト遠征隊に参加。調査をおもな目的としたこの遠征でノース・コルを発見し,ルート開拓に成功した。 1922年酸素ボンベの初使用で知られる第2次遠征隊に再び参加。1回目のアタックは 8230m地点まで到達したが再アタックは雪崩によるシェルパの死亡事故により断念。 1924年第3次遠征隊にも参加。出発前「なぜエベレストに登るのか」と聞かれ「そこに山があるから」と答えたことは有名。アンドリュー・アービンとともに 8170m地点の最終キャンプから山頂を目指したが,再びキャンプに戻ることはなかった。その後,隊員の一人の目撃証言もあるが,2人が初登頂を果たしたのか否かをめぐる論争が繰り広げられた。 1999年に 8155m付近でマロリーの遺体が発見された。 マロリー
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