Hifu - Hifu

Japanese: 被布 - ひふ
Hifu - Hifu

A type of outerwear for Japanese clothing to protect against the cold, used both indoors and outdoors. It is similar in shape to a haori, but has a rounded collar that is folded back towards the back. A stand-up collar is attached to the front of the coat, and the stand-up collar is worn overlapping the stand-up collar. This is the same as the modern-day michiyuki coat. A decorative braided cord with tassels attached to an agemaki (plum or chrysanthemum knot) is sewn to the upper part of the stand-up collar at the chest and used to fasten it in place. Like a haori, it has gussets at the sides. It is made of fabrics such as rinzu or crepe, and is made with a lined or cotton-padded construction. The sleeve length and body length are similar to those of a haori. Originally written as hifu, it was an outer garment worn by nobles (kuge). However, this style is different from the hifu we refer to today. Hifu was originally worn by male tea masters and haiku poets around the Kyoho era (1716-1736), but began to be worn by women around the Bunsei era (1818-1830). However, it was mostly worn only by widows or retired people of feudal lords and hatamoto vassals, and it was rare for ordinary women to wear it. At the end of the Edo period, it came to be worn by women of samurai families as everyday wear, and then by ordinary women and girls, continuing until the Meiji and Taisho periods. Today, doyuki coats are used as outerwear, and hifu is no longer worn. However, for girls, there are sleeveless ones made with cotton or lined kimonos. For celebratory wear for three-year-old girls, ones made with scarlet twill and crested habutae are worn.

[Yasu Fujimoto]

Names of each part of the hifu
©Katsuya Nishikawa ">

Names of each part of the hifu


Source: Shogakukan Encyclopedia Nipponica About Encyclopedia Nipponica Information | Legend

Japanese:

和服防寒用の外被の一種で、室内、室外ともに用いられる。形は羽織に似ているが、衿(えり)は丸い小衿をつけ背のほうへ折り返して着る。前身頃(みごろ)には竪衿(たてえり)をつけ、竪衿を重ねて着用する。これは現在の道行(みちゆき)コートと同じである。竪衿の上部胸元に総角(あげまき)(梅結び、菊結び)に房をつけた飾りの組紐(くみひも)を縫いつけ、これでとめる。脇には羽織と同様に襠(まち)がついている。布地は綸子(りんず)、縮緬(ちりめん)などを用いて袷(あわせ)仕立てまたは綿入れ仕立てにする。袖丈(そでたけ)、身丈は羽織に準じる。初めは披風と書き、公家(くげ)の間で用いられた外衣であった。しかしこれは今日いう被布とは形が異なっている。被布はもともと男性の茶人や俳人が享保(きょうほう)(1716~36)ごろ着用していたが、文政(ぶんせい)(1818~30)のころから婦人も着用するようになった。しかし大名、旗本などの後家や隠居のみに多く用いられ、一般の婦人がこれを着用することはまれであった。幕末には武家の女性の平常用に、やがて一般の婦女子にも用いられるようになり、明治・大正まで続いた。現在では外被として道行コートが用いられ、被布は着用されなくなった。しかし女児用には袖なし綿入れまたは袷に仕立てたものがある。3歳の女児の祝い着には、緋(ひ)の綸子、紋羽二重(もんはぶたえ)などで仕立てたものが用いられる。

[藤本やす]

被布の各部名称
©西川勝也">

被布の各部名称


出典 小学館 日本大百科全書(ニッポニカ)日本大百科全書(ニッポニカ)について 情報 | 凡例

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