A juban with wide sleeves and a full-length tsuitate worn between a skin juban and a long kimono. Long jubans emerged from the hanjuban of the Edo period as undergarments diversified, but samurai did not wear long jubans until the Meiji period. They are worn with a collar core and half-collar to prevent the kimono from getting dirty and to keep the appearance neat. Both men and women have a full collar, but long jubans with a separate collar and a standing collar like an okumi are easier to wear for women. The upper part is made with double sleeves and a tomobuki style, with the same fabric on both sides. For winter, there are lined jubans, but usually only the sleeves are lined and the body is made in a single layer. Source: Heibonsha World Encyclopedia, 2nd Edition Information |
肌じゅばんと長着の間に着る対丈(ついたけ),広袖のじゅばん。江戸時代の半じゅばんから下着の多様化によって長じゅばんが生まれたが,武家では明治まで長じゅばんは着なかった。襟芯と半襟をかけて用い,長着の汚れを防ぎ姿を整える役目をする。形は男女とも通し襟があるが,女性には別襟と衽(おくみ)状の竪襟のついた長じゅばんが着やすい。上物は表裏同じ生地の無双袖,共(ともぶき)に仕立てる。冬用には袷(あわせ)があるが,普通は袖だけ袷にし身ごろは単(ひとえ)仕立てが主。
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