National clothing

As part of the national spiritual mobilization movement during the Sino-Japanese War, the National Uniform Order was issued on November 1, 1940 (Showa 15) to regulate the men's uniform. It consisted of a jacket, hakama (trousers), shirt, hat, coat, gloves, and shoes in national defense color (khaki). There were two types: Type A, which had a collar and obi on the jacket, and Type B, which was military uniform-style. The aim of the establishment was to make the uniform similar to military and civilian clothing, to make effective use of clothing resources, and to streamline clothing life by combining Japanese and Western styles. The design was based on the winning designs of a public competition (282 entries) held in November of the previous year by the Tokyo Nichi Nichi and Osaka Mainichi newspapers and the Clothing Association. If a ceremonial badge made of ancient purple braided cord was worn on the chest, it became formal attire. It became widely used for a time, starting with government officials and teachers, but was no longer worn after Japan's defeat in the war. For women, in February 1942, the Ministry of Health and Welfare took the lead in deciding on three types of standard women's uniforms based on 648 public entries; a skirt-style Type A, a kimono-style Type B, and monpe (slacks) style work uniform. The work uniform in particular paved the way for the widespread use of monpe and slacks during and after the war.

[Moriwaki Itsuo]

Source: Shogakukan Encyclopedia Nipponica About Encyclopedia Nipponica Information | Legend

日中戦争下の国民精神総動員運動の一環として、1940年（昭和15）11月1日公布施行の国民服令で制定された男子の服装。国防色（カーキ色）の上衣と袴(こ)（ズボン）、中衣（シャツ）、帽、外套(がいとう)、手套、靴からなり、上衣に衽(おくみ)型と帯型をつけた甲号と、軍服調の乙号の2種があった。制定のねらいは、軍民被服の近接、被服資源の有効利用、和洋二重の衣生活合理化などで、東京日日、大阪毎日両紙と被服協会が前年11月に行った公募（応募282点）の入選作品をもとにデザインされた。古代紫色の組紐(くみひも)の儀礼章を胸につければ礼装になった。官吏や教員を手始めに一時は広く普及したが、敗戦後は着られなくなった。なお女性用には、42年（昭和17）2月厚生省が中心となり、648点の公募作品を参考に、スカート式の甲号、和服式の乙号、もんぺ（スラックス）式の活動衣の3種の婦人標準服が決定され、ことに活動衣は戦中・戦後のもんぺ、スラックス普及に道を開いた。

［森脇逸男］

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