Brocade Robe - Uran

...From the Nara period to the early Heian period, the robe had narrow bodies and sleeves, but from the mid-Heian period onwards, as clothing became more Japanese and longer, the bodies became wider and the sleeves longer (see figure). There were two types of robe: those used by civil servants had both sides sewn shut and brocade at the hem, called uran no robe or hoeki no ho, while those used by young people and military officers had both sides left open and no brocade, called ao, no brocade robe, or ketteki no ho. The robe with the front tucked up and the back waist tucked up and sewn in place to the extent that it will be tucked in is called hakoe. ...

*Some of the terminology explanations that refer to "brocade robe" are listed below.

Source | Heibonsha World Encyclopedia 2nd Edition | Information

…奈良時代から平安時代初期にかけての袍は身ごろも袖も細いものであったが，平安時代中期以降，服装の和様化，長大化によって，身ごろが広く，袖丈が長いものに変わった（図）。袍の形に2種あり，文官の用いるものは両脇が縫いふさがり，裾に襴（らん）がついた，有襴（うらん）の袍または縫腋袍（ほうえきのほう）といい，若年や武官の用いるものは両脇を縫いふさがず開いていて，襴をつけていないもので，襖（あお）とか無襴の袍，または闕腋袍（けつてきのほう）と呼んだ。なお，縫腋袍の前身ごろをたくし上げて，かい込みをする分だけ前もって後腰の部分をたくし上げて縫いとめたものを格袋（はこえ）と呼んでいる。…

※「有襴の袍」について言及している用語解説の一部を掲載しています。

出典｜株式会社平凡社世界大百科事典 第２版について | 情報