…Submerged breakwaters, which are installed below sea level for coastal protection, artificially induce wave breaking. The large amount of wave energy lost by wave breaking creates wave currents, such as longshore currents, rip currents, and undertows, in the surf zone, forming a nearshore current system. These currents play an important role in coastal sand transport, and are being studied from the perspective of coastal engineering. … *Some terminology explanations that mention "wave current" are listed below. Source | Heibonsha World Encyclopedia 2nd Edition | Information |
…海岸保全のために海面下に設けられる潜堤は人工的に砕波を起こさせるものである。砕波によって失われた大量の波浪エネルギーは,磯波帯内に並岸流longshore current,離岸流rip currentおよび底引き流undertowなどの波浪流wave currentをつくり海浜流系を形成する。これらの流れは,海岸の漂砂に関して重要な作用をしており,海岸工学の立場から研究が行われている。… ※「wave current」について言及している用語解説の一部を掲載しています。 出典|株式会社平凡社世界大百科事典 第2版について | 情報 |
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