Hakama - Keiko

A type of modern court dress for women. The attire is made up of an uchiki (Japanese traditional kimono), hitoe (Japanese traditional trousers), kiribakama (Japanese traditional hakama), and a hiogi (Japanese folding fan). Since the Heian period, uchiki have been worn as everyday clothing by women of the nobility, but since the Meiji period, they have been worn as formal attire for court ceremonies. Uchiki is a long-hemmed top with a hanging collar and wide sleeves. The collar, hem, and cuffs of early modern uchiki are sewn with the outer fabric about 1 cm inward from the lining, creating a so-called "omeri" pattern. The texture is differentiated according to summer/winter and rank, and both summer and winter are lined. When hitoe is omitted for a ceremony, a bonbori (Japanese traditional lantern) is held instead of a hiogi (Japanese folding fan).

[Takada Yamato]

Source: Shogakukan Encyclopedia Nipponica About Encyclopedia Nipponica Information | Legend

近代女子宮廷服の一種。袿(うちき)と単(ひとえ)を着て切袴(きりばかま)をはき、檜扇(ひおうぎ)を手にする服装。平安時代以来、公家(くげ)女子の日常着として袿が用いられたが、明治時代以後は宮廷祭儀に通常礼服として着装されている。袿は垂領(たりくび)、広袖(ひろそで)形式で裾(すそ)の長い上着。近世の袿の襟や裾の縁、袖口など、表地が裏地より1センチメートルほど内側に控えて仕立てられ、いわゆる「おめり」となっている。地質は夏冬および位階による区別があり、夏冬とも袷(あわせ)仕立てである。儀式により単を省く場合は檜扇にかえて雪洞(ぼんぼり)を持つ。

［高田倭男］

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