Aya Katajia

… The changes in the production system and the rise of national culture inevitably brought about changes in the content of textiles. For example, twill changed from the four-ply twill that had been the norm in the previous era to three-ply and six-ply weaves, and new designs were invented, such as kataji twill, which has a three-ply ground and a six-ply pattern, ukimon twill, which has a three-ply ground and a floating weft, ukimon twill, which has a pattern woven with a different colored weft floating on a flat ground, and futae (double) fabric, which has a floating fabric woven in the same color and a different pattern woven with a different colored weft in a stitching style. In addition, in the field of weaving, three-ply gauze was created by adding one more warp thread to the conventional two-ply, making three warp threads twisted, and the so-called Mukai-mojire (Kannon-gauze) was created by twisting adjacent warp threads in the opposite directions. Other examples of weaving included the combination of gauze and plain weave to create a gauze ground with a plain weave pattern, and the Komeori weave, a special variation of the gauze weave.

*Some of the terminology explanations that refer to "Kojiaya" are listed below.

Source | Heibonsha World Encyclopedia 2nd Edition | Information

…　生産体制の変貌や国風文化の勃興は，必然的に織物の内容にも変化をもたらした。たとえば綾は前代に中心をなした四枚綾から，3枚，6枚の組織を主体とするようになり，地を三枚綾，文を六枚綾とした固地（かたじ）綾や，地を三枚綾とし緯を浮かして文様を織り出した浮文綾，平地に色の異なる絵緯（えぬき）を浮かして文様を織り出した浮織物，あるいは文様も共色で織った浮織物にさらに別の色の絵緯をもって異なった文様を縫取り風に織り出した二陪（ふたえ）(二重)織物などが新たに考案された。また綟り織物には，従来の2本もじれにさらに1本を加えて3本の経糸をもじらせた3本もじれの紗や，隣りあう経糸のもじれをたがいに反対にした，いわゆる対綟（むかいもじれ）(観音綟)が出現したほか，紗の組織と平組織とを組み合わせて地を紗とし，文を平織で表した顕紋紗，紗の組織を利用した特殊な変化組織である縠織（こめおり）なども考案された。…

※「固地綾」について言及している用語解説の一部を掲載しています。

出典｜株式会社平凡社世界大百科事典 第２版について | 情報