Forbidden Colors

These are the colors of clothing and fabrics used by high-ranking people such as the Emperor, Crown Prince, Imperial Prince, Court noble, Empress, and Princess, and were forbidden for ordinary people to wear. Since the Asuka period, a system of indicating social status by clothing color has been in place, whereby colors corresponding to rank, or "toujiki," were established, and the use of clothing colors of higher ranks was prohibited. From the Heian period onwards, the use of colors other than "toujiki" was prohibited, and the following colors were also forbidden: the Emperor's "toujiki" (white, yellow lacquer dye, and blue), the Crown Prince's "ouni" (red ochre), the Retired Emperor's "red," the deep purple and crimson colors used by high-ranking people, and brocade and two-layered fabrics. In the "Sandai Jitsuroku" (Chronicles of Three Generations), in the 12th year of the Jogan era (870) of Emperor Seiwa, it is stated that the forbidden colors were not permitted for undergarments, indicating that the forbidden colors extended to underwear as well. Similarly, in the 5th year of the Gangyo era (881) of Emperor Yozei, it was forbidden for both men and women to wear any color dyed with madder or safflower mixed with gardenia, regardless of how deep it was, and gardenia color, which could be mistaken for yellow ochre, was forbidden. In the 14th year of the Engi era (914) of the Nihon Koryo, it is written that deep and light safflower colors are forbidden for beautiful clothing, and there were restrictions on the use of safflower. Furthermore, receiving an imperial decree for forbidden colors, or using a specific forbidden color with the permission of the emperor, was called "ironyu". Usually, this decree was received at the fourth or fifth rank, and the children of the regents received it on the day of their coming-of-age ceremony. Those who were granted permission to wear forbidden colors were called "kinjiki no hito". The colors used by imperial permission included deep purple and red, and outer hakama made of floating fabric with a hail pattern on the kimono. Kurodo was also given a blue robe to wear. Regarding forbidden colors for women, they could wear colors according to their father's rank, and according to the "Masasuke Shozokusho," ladies-in-waiting of the upper ranks were allowed to wear blue and red woven karaginu and jizuri skirts. Both men and women could wear light purple and red, called kikirushi colors.

[Takada Yamato]

Source: Shogakukan Encyclopedia Nipponica About Encyclopedia Nipponica Information | Legend

天皇、皇太子、親王、公卿(くぎょう)、中宮、内親王など上位の者が用いる服色、および織物で、一般の者が着用することを禁じたもの。飛鳥(あすか)時代以来、服色によって身分を表す制度により、位階相当の色、すなわち当色(とうじき)が定められ、それより上位の服色を用いることを禁じた。平安時代以降は当色以外の使用を禁じたほか、天皇の当色である白、黄櫨染(こうろぜん)、青色、皇太子の黄丹(おうに)、上皇の赤色、上位の者が用いる紫や紅の濃い色、および錦(にしき)や二陪(ふたえ)織物は禁色とされた。『三代実録』清和(せいわ)天皇の貞観(じょうがん)12年（870）に、禁色を下衣となすことを許さずとあって、禁色が下着にまで及んでいたことを示している。同じく陽成(ようぜい)天皇の元慶(がんぎょう)5年（881）に、男女とも茜(あかね)、紅花(こうか)を支子(くちなし)に交え染める色は深浅を論ぜず服用することを禁ずとあり、黄丹に見間違える支子色を禁じた。『日本紀略』延喜(えんぎ)14年（914）に、美服紅花の深浅色等を禁ずとあり、紅についても制限された。なお禁色の宣旨を蒙(こうむ)るといって、天皇の許可によって特定の禁色を用いることを「色聴(いろゆ)る」といった。普通は四位、五位のときにこの宣旨を蒙り、摂関家の子弟は元服の日に蒙った。禁色を聴(ゆ)るされた人を禁色人(きんじきのひと)と称した。勅許によって用いるものは、たとえば紫や紅の濃い色、窠(か)に霰(あられ)文の浮織物の表袴(うえのはかま)などであった。また蔵人(くろうど)は青色の袍(ほう)を下賜されて着用した。女性の禁色については、父親の位階に準じて使用することができ、『満佐須計装束抄(まさすけしょうぞくしょう)』によると、上﨟(じょうろう)の女房は青色、赤色の織物の唐衣(からぎぬ)、地摺(じず)りの裳(も)を許された。また男女とも聴るしの色といい、紫と紅の薄い色は使用できた。

［高田倭男］

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