Obaku cuisine - Obaku cuisine

A type of shojin cuisine. It is also called fucha cuisine because tea is drunk first and then the food is served. The difference between shojin cuisine and Obaku cuisine is that shojin cuisine is served separately for each person, while Obaku cuisine is served in portions for several people and shared at the table. In 1654 (Shoo 3), Zen master Ingen came to Japan from China and built Manpukuji Temple in Uji, making it the head temple of the Obaku sect. Obaku cuisine began as food prepared for the monks. Obaku cuisine became associated with Nagasaki's shippoku cuisine and became a widely used cuisine. The "Ryori Yamakashu" published in 1802 (Kyowa 2) states, "While there are similarities between fucha and takubuku, fucha is vegetarian and made delicious with oil. Takubuku is seasoned with fish and the style is no different from a regular kaiseki meal. However, it should be remembered that fucha is preferred by those who do not drink much, while takubuku is a style that goes well with alcohol."

Raw vegetables are served on individual plates, while cooked vegetables are served in large bowls or on plates, from which each person can take their own portion. The menu is extensive, and appetizers are served first, which are called haifu. Shunkan is a stew of various vegetables, and must be presented beautifully and look good. Furthermore, while it is made using only vegetables, it is distinctive in that it is made to look like sea eels and shellfish. Mafu is made by grinding tofu and white sesame seeds thoroughly in a mortar, adding 5 to 6 times the amount of dashi stock and a little sake, kneading the mixture, adding kuzuko (kuzu starch) in an amount equal to the amount of sesame seeds, kneading the mixture slowly over low heat for over 2 hours, pouring it into a container, and letting it harden. The mixture is seasoned with soy sauce and mirin, and the mixture is boiled to a boil. Unpen is vegetables stewed with kuzu, and especially vegetable scraps are used. Yuji is a shojinage (vegetarian deep-fried dish), and is characterized by its seasoning. Konbu (kelp) is important as a seasoning source, but is also used as a cooking ingredient. Some dishes have the word "longevity" in their names. Kenchien (rolled fibers) are ingredients rolled into a cylindrical shape and deep-fried. Biju (major longevity) is fried umeboshi (pickled plum) that has had the saltiness and sourness removed. The soup is clear, but sometimes it is cloudy. Pickles are called ensai (side dishes), and a variety of seasonal vegetables are used. Adding rice and fruit (zosui) to these makes for a full course Obaku cuisine, but monks' hall cuisine does not serve this many dishes. Western vegetables are still rarely used.

[Tetsunosuke Tada]

Source: Shogakukan Encyclopedia Nipponica About Encyclopedia Nipponica Information | Legend

精進(しょうじん)料理の一種。初めに茶を飲んでから料理に移るので普茶(ふちゃ)料理ともいう。精進料理と黄檗料理の区別は、簡単にいえば、精進料理はめいめい別盛りにするが、黄檗料理は何人分か盛り込み、食卓で取り分ける料理をいう。1654年（承応3）隠元(いんげん)禅師が中国から渡来帰化し、宇治に万福寺(まんぷくじ)を建立し、黄檗宗の本山としたが、衆僧の食事としてつくられたのが黄檗料理の始まりである。黄檗料理は長崎の卓袱(しっぽく)料理と結び付いて、広く用いられる料理となった。1802年（享和2）刊の『料理山家集』に、「普茶と卓袱と類したものながら普茶は精進にて油を以(もっ)て佳味とす。卓袱は魚類を以て調味し、仕様も常の会席などと別に変わりたることなし云々。但し、普茶下戸の好むもの、卓袱は酒をすすむる仕様と心得てよし」とある。

　生菜(せいさい)は皿に銘々盛りとし、煮菜(しゃさい)は大椀(わん)または皿に盛って出し、各自で取り分ける。献立は数が多く、初めに前菜が出るが、それを杯附(はいふ)という。笋羹(しゅんかん)は野菜を種々煮合わせたもので、盛り込んだ姿を美しく、見た目もよくしなければならない。そのうえ野菜だけを用いながら、とくにアナゴ、貝類などの姿作りをするのが特色である。麻腐(まふ)は豆腐と白ごまを、すり鉢でよくすり、5～6倍のだし汁、酒少々を加えて練りのばし、ごまの量と同じくらいの葛粉(くずこ)を加え、遠火で2時間余りゆっくり練り、流し箱に流し込み、固める。しょうゆとみりんを混ぜ、煮きったもので調味する。雲片(うんぺん)は野菜の葛かけ煮で、とくに野菜の切りくずを利用する。油(ゆじ)は精進揚げで、味つけがしてあるのが特色である。昆布は調味源として重要であるが、料理材料としても用いる。その料理名にも長寿とつけてあるものがある。巻繊(けんちえん)は円筒形に材料を巻いて揚げたものをいう。眉寿(びじゅ)は梅干しの塩味と酸味を抜いて、油揚げにしたものをいう。汁は澄まし汁を用いるが、ときには濁り汁のこともある。漬物は醃菜(えんさい)といい、これにも種々の季節の野菜を用いる。これらに飯果物(はんかもの)（雑炊）などが加わるのが、いわば黄檗料理のフルコースであるが、僧堂料理としてはこのように多くの料理は出さない。洋菜はいまでもほとんど用いていない。

［多田鉄之助］

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