It is also read as ryōtō and written as uchikake. It was the formal attire of samurai women from the mid-Muromachi period onwards. After the Onin War (1467-77), the attire of the nobles was on the decline, and new kosode-style clothing was established. It was named this because it was worn simply as an uchikake over a kosode without putting the sleeves through, imitating the uchiki of the Heian period. It was also called kakidori because the hem of the uchikake was pulled down when walking, and these names remain on traditional bridal attire even today. It was originally used as winter formal attire, as opposed to the loincloth, which was the formal attire for summer.PantsPlease see the "Socks" page. Source: Encyclopaedia Britannica Concise Encyclopedia About Encyclopaedia Britannica Concise Encyclopedia Information |
りょうとうとも読み,打掛とも書く。室町時代中期以降の武家女子の正装。応仁の乱 (1467~77) 以後,公家の服飾の後退に乗じ,新しい小袖型中心の衣服が成立した際,平安時代の袿 (うちき) をまねて,袖を通さず小袖の上にただ打ち掛けて着たことからこう呼ばれる。歩行の際,褄 (つま) をかいどるところから掻取りの別名があり,これらの名称は今日でも伝統的な花嫁衣装に残されている。元来,夏の正装である腰巻に対し,冬の正装として用いられた。
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