…(3) Alternate Costumes: Costumes specific to each piece. On the left side, alternate costumes are used for Sanshou, Batou, Lingwang, Hu Dingyuan, Somakushiya, Genjoraku, Tagyuraku, Seigaiha, Saisourou, Taipingraku, etc., while on the right side, alternate costumes are used for Guitoku, Kanjoraku, Batou, Nasori, The Eight Immortals, Ringa, Bairou, etc. Of these, all but "Seigaiha," "Taiheiraku," "Saisourou," "Bassen," and "Rinka" are made of an ancient tunic called a ryotou costume, worn over a robe. There are either wool borders or brocade borders. The wool borders are used in "Sanshou," "Batou," "Lingwang," "Hudinsu," "Su Mozhe," "Kanchengle," "Guidoku," and "Nasori," and are bordered with wool (raw silk) dyed red, brown, yellow, navy blue, and white. Among the two round crests on the chest and back, "Lingwang" features a dragon, "Nasori" features a bird, and "Batou" and "Sanshou" feature stylized Tang flowers, making them Tang textiles. The gold brocade borders are trimmed with gold brocade, with "Utsukuraku" and "Beirou" on a red background and "Komaboko" and "Hannari" on a green background. *Some of the terminology explanations that refer to "kinran-border" are listed below. Source | Heibonsha World Encyclopedia 2nd Edition | Information |
…(3)別装束 個々の曲に固有の装束で,左方では,《散手(さんじゆ)》《抜頭(ばとう)》《陵王》《胡飲酒(こんじゆ)》《蘇莫者(そまくしや)》《還城楽(げんじようらく)》《打球楽(たぎゆうらく)》《青海波》《採桑老(さいそうろう)》《太平楽》等,右方では,《貴徳》《還城楽》《抜頭》《納曾利(なそり)》《八仙》《林歌(りんが)》《陪臚(ばいろ)》等が別装束を用いる。このうち《青海波》《太平楽》《採桑老》《八仙》《林歌》以外は裲襠(りようとう)装束といわれる古代の貫頭衣(かんとうい)で袍の上に着用し,毛縁(けべり)と金襴縁(きんらんべり)とがあり,毛縁は《散手》《抜頭》《陵王》《胡飲酒》《蘇莫者》《還城楽》《貴徳》《納曾利》で用い,赤,茶,黄,紺の元白の染め分けでできた毛(生絹)で縁どられており,胸と背にある2個ずつの丸紋の中には,《陵王》は竜,《納曾利》は鳥,《抜頭》《散手》等は唐花の図案化されたものがそれぞれ織り出されており,唐織物である。金襴縁は金襴で縁どりされており,《打球楽》《陪臚》は赤地錦,《狛桙(こまぼこ)》《垣破(はんなり)》は萌葱地錦である。… ※「金襴縁」について言及している用語解説の一部を掲載しています。 出典|株式会社平凡社世界大百科事典 第2版について | 情報 |
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